|
|
|
|
Getting StartedSo you want to race a Superkart? Of course you do, you'd be mad not to!!!
Or do you want to help within the organisation?
Value for money and pound per performance there is nothing else that comes close to any of the Superkart / gearbox kart classes in British motorsport! This is not a definitive guide to Superkart's but it should hopefully be a push in the right direction and help your investigations further. If you want to race I would recommend taking your time deciding what class, level and type of venues you wish to compete on. Taking your time in deciding class, chassis and engine that might be suitable for your needs and budget will save a lot of heartache, time and money in the long run. Please talk to us if you want advice......we don't bite. Beginners Guide
The Different ClassesSuperkarting can be a little confusing when you are new, all the classes and formula. Thankfully we have unified the classes a little more these days, so read on to find out what they are. Division One - "The Twins" The worlds premier class is Formula E, or division one. This is the ultimate in Superkarting in performance and technology. The class is known over here as the "twins" class and its official name is Division one. The karts can be identified by their yellow number plates with black numbers (the twin pipes and the noise they make also gives it away a bit!) These karts utilise 250 Grand Prix motorcycle engines new and old or purpose designed racing kart engines using GP technology. The class structure also allows the use of 2 separate 125cc power units to be mounted as used in the 125 Superkart classes which spices it up a bit! The most popular motor by far is the 256 Rotax tandem twin raced successfully in GP's by the likes of Nial Mackenzie for Armstrong in the early eighty's, these motors although 20 years old are still with modern upgrades like cylinder's, carbs, pipes etc still very hard to beat. The tandem twin layout lends itself well to being fitted to a Superkart due to its very narrow and low silhouette, and its power characteristics being a disc valve tandem layout. Manufacturers like SGM, PFE, REDOT and others have all to some degree have copied the Rotax motor design for these very reasons.
In the USA, Australia and some European countries the Japanese GP bike engines such as the Honda RS250 and Yamaha TZ250 V twins have started taking a hold due to their easy availability and lack of price tag compared to the Rotax Hybrids. Although the engine design of a V twin does not lend itself as well to mounting on a superkart the development of these power units is now on a par in some countries with the tandem twin layout. Ask Joachim Breckwoldt German Superkart champion (Yamaha TZ250) or Wayne Rainey and Eddie Lawson V twin TZ's USA. You might recognise the last two names from somewhere? Yes if any proof was needed that Superkarts are the best Buzz on 4 wheels what do ex 500 GP motorcycle world champions do for a rush when they retire from riding 200mph Grand Prix motorcycles? They take up the only sport that is slightly more mental! This is the pinnacle of Superkarting in performance, price and technology, if you have never sat in a kart before or don't know one end of an engine from another I think you might find it A; hard to keep it facing the right way round and B; keep it running without the support of a good free mechanic friend and/or a large wallet. I don't want to knock this class as it can be raced on a budget as can any other class, and the motor's are intrinsically reliable being built for the job. But this class is normally raced by experienced racer's who have moved up through the classes or had other motorsport experience. As David Coulthard said after testing one a few years ago "this is one of the most frightening things I have ever had to do"
Division Two - "The Singles" These are without a doubt the most popular Superkarts in the UK, with a vast array of engine and chassis options. The single cylinder class is split into 2 divisions, the division two class using the Rotax 257 six speed single and the Gas Gas single, both of these engines were designed specifically for use in Superkarting.
The other single cylinder class, which is now our biggest, is the Formula 250 National, this class is now the premier British championship attracting the best teams and drivers in the UK and overseas. We also run a clubman version of this class called 250 challenge for drivers on a smaller budget or for newcomers who have not qualified to race in the British championship. The Housewives Favourite, the CR250
The 250 national rules briefly comprise of allowing any production single cylinder 250 two stroke motocross engine up to 2002 with a 5 speed gearbox with allowed tuning and changing the carburettor if wanted. If you look through any of our result pages you will find that 99% of the field run Honda CR250 motors, these do seem to be the motor of choice, and in some ways it has become a one make class. Why you may ask not a Kawasaki, Suzuki, Yamaha, etc? Other engines win in many other countries? The Honda just seems to be the best motor all round at the moment in the UK with all the development work having been done for a number of years, all the parts including tuning parts and even complete new 2001 engines are easily and cheaply available to us off the shelf through specialist dealers such as Viper Racing. The single cylinder karts are maybe the best compromise between handling performance and cost, with a complete new outfit available for as little as £5000 or a good second hand outfit with lots of spares for around £2500-£3000. If you just want to play then you can buy an older less competitive kart for as little as a £1000!
While you don't need as much mechanical knowledge to run one of these as you do a twin, and they don't cost as much don't be fooled by the low prices of these karts, they are no less a Superkart. A well driven single can lap as fast as a division one! The handling and power of these pocket rockets will shock you I promise, and if you have never driven one I can assure you wont find it lacking in the brown trouser department for a while!
If you don't fancy jumping straight in the deep end with a Superkart on the "long circuits" such as Brands Hatch, Donington etc then the other option with a single is that there is a lot more of them being raced on the "short circuits" compared to the twins i.e Kart tracks were you can learn your craft at a lot lower speeds and for a lot less money! Entry fees are approx £40 and you use very hard wearing 5" tyres instead of the super sticky 6" ones and no control fuel as for the big tracks, many would agree this is the only way to go before you race with the "big boys".
125 Superkarts These are a very competitive class of Superkart, with less ferocity in terms of engine performance compared to that of a 250 Superkart, but still capable of keeping within a couple of seconds on lap times in comparison to that of a 250 single. There is a vast array of engines eligible for use in the class, with the most popular ones such as Pavesi, TM and SGM being favoured, which are specifically designed for use in karting.
There is also a vast array of Chassis options available for use as well, the chassis can be divided into "short circuit" and "long circuit" use and they can be very different looking machines depending on the discipline, also some chassis are great at both. Its just a matter of bodywork, but again the most favoured tend to be that of the Anderson and Formula 1. The 125 Superkart class is split into two categories, the 125 Open and 125 ICC. The 125 open class is for all single cylinder Reed and Rotary Valve engines comprising of six speed gearbox’s, tuning allowed and changing of carburettors as well. The class also run full long circuit body work. You may ask why don’t people use engines such as the motocross engines as used in the 250 class, well, if you look at the results sheets the majority of the field are running the Pavesi or TM engines, as these tend to rev on a lot more and they are specifically designed for Karting, with many years of development work being carried out by the factories and tuners. Also the parts are readily available and at a competitive price from various specialist dealers. The 125ICC is very much similar, using the same engines, but they are all reed valve induction, and the Carburettors are restricted to 30mm in size and a set head volume also has to be adhered to. Tuning in this class is very restricted. The ICC’s run with the standard short circuit body work, and mainly run on the short circuit chassis variants such as Tony Kart, Marenello, Energy etc. etc. etc. The 125 Superkart is a very cost effective class, with plenty of good quality second hand outfits available for as little as £1200 onwards. But if you fancy the more competitive option then a full new outfit can be bought for a price of £5000 onwards. While you don’t need to be a mechanical guru to run one of these as you do a 250 Superkart and they are relatively a lot less costly, don’t underestimate the performance of these little beauties!!!! The handling and performance of these mini Superkarts will certainly leave you gob smacked!!!!
Frequently Asked QuestionsSc'use me mister how fast is that? Superkarts are quick, there is no getting away from that, but in my humble opinion, not as quick (in a straight line) as many people will tell you. Most Superkarts due to the nature of UK circuits are geared for between 120-150mph depending on venue.
If you have ridden motorcycles then you will be quite used to the acceleration and speed, a good 250 single feels on par with a modern 250 production 250 2 stroke road bike or 400 4 stroke. The twin cylinder karts feel like a 600cc supersport bike of a couple of years ago in performance. That's just my seat of the pants opinion.
How come you guys are as fast as Formula 3's and faster that virtually all production cars at some circuits? We are all just bloody hero's, legends , driver's of such sheer skill that we can make a "go kart" do amazing feats.......no not really, well some of us can. The truth of the matter lies somewhere in the middle ground. To be fast in a Superkart does take great skill, and some bravery. But we cant take all the credit.........these little pocket rockets are quite awesome in two area's.......... going round corners and stopping.
The cornering ability of these things cannot and will not be appreciated until you have driven one, and got the bruises to prove it! To be honest unless its a hairpin bend of quite horrific proportions we don't really need to slow down very much for many corners, and when we do need to slow down the brakes on these things are just a bit silly......yes they are that good.
That's the thing I remember most about my first drive in a Superkart, the first time I hit the brakes hard it was like being hit in the face with a shovel it slowed that violently.........WOW. After a go in one of these driving a Scooby turbo, evo, cateram, gsi 16v blah blah etc, etc feels like riding a pregnant cow at the Grand national.
Is it Expensive? All motor sport is expensive, but in real terms Superkarts are a mere drop in the ocean compared to racing "real cars". I have not done the research as yet but I would dread to think what one might pay to race a single seater or tin top to gain similar lap times to us and have the track time we do at the top venues we get to race at. As mentioned earlier in this article the karts can be purchased for very reasonable money, check out our for classifieds section regularly.
Why karts? Well for me It was price and practicality initially to be honest, I had done a few track days in cars and found it mind numbingly pointless flying round in circles with a load of posers who for the most couldn't really drive their over the top cars and I wanted to have a go at the real thing, racing a car. Then after research into it I found that to buy the type of car I was interested in was going to cost a lot of money, plus the logistics of storing it, transporting it plus preparing it put the dream right out of my league straight away, I'm glad it did now for I would have never taken up karting!
So lets look at the logistics of racing a Superkart, firstly if you have a garage you don't have any storage issues. Most people either have a van to transport the equipment in, or otherwise the good old "tow-a-van" trailer behind the car, either of these can be bought as you know for sensible money. You don't really need a vast amount of equipment either, just a reasonable tool kit (doesn't have to be snap on) and if you buy cheap tools you don't feel so bad when you leave some behind by accident! Obviously a race suit (leathers), helmet, boots, gloves spare pants can all be bought for as little or as much as you want. (Don't forget that the MSA in its wisdom has now banned new motorcycle helmets so you will have to find a helmet with the BSI kitemark on.)
Cost of a meeting estimate: · Average entry fee for 2 races and 15 minute qualifying session : £150 · Tyres : £150 per set (depending on type will last more than one meeting) · Control fuel 25lt drum (if racing in British champs) : £56 · Fuel to and from meeting plus sundries, food etc £125 est. So really you are looking at say £500 and that's as long as nothing breaks or goes wrong obviously we haven't included costing out engine rebuilds during the season, maintenance, registration fee of £50 for years club membership etc, this is a rough guide, and you could do it for a lot less or a lot more! So if the above hasn't frightened you off to look at the Carp angling for beginners web site.....Read on! But do check out how much it costs to race a decent car! So yes its quite expensive I suppose but so is that new kitchen/car/holiday/tv/bathroom etc, Which one of those are you going to be able to tell your friends about with interesting stories of valour, courage bravery, and skill in the pub on a Sunday night while grasping a little plastic trophy? And which one of those will make you new and lifelong friendships and bring a smile to your face when you think back 20 years from now?How do I start? What do I need to do?Right you've done the research, you may have even bought or hired a kart.
Next step is to gain a licence, this is a very simple task, you must purchase an ARKS pack from the MSA for £36, the pack can be bought online so go to the MSA website for further info. Once you have got the licence you may need the equipment, I would recommend you take your time and do your research, the end of the year is the time to pick up a bargain as the top guys will be replacing there equipment. The best sites are our own & UK Karting, I would also advise you to order Karting magazine as they not only have some good adverts but its worth reading up on what's happening in the UK scene. You can always contact the Series Co-ordinator - He's and ex racer and winner. He knows the sport inside out. Safety Equipment?"IF you have a $10 head buy a $10 dollar hat"
What safety gear do I need? In long circuit karting its compulsory to wear leathers, the only stipulation is that they must be a minimum of 1.2mm thick, that means you can either buy a 2 piece motorcycle "road suit" or buy 1 piece racing leathers.
As an ex racer my advice would be listen to common sense, and the experts in the field. And get the best you can afford.
LeathersOne piece or two piece? The Problems that can occur with every 2 piece leather set is that because you have the facility to remove either the top or bottom half independently via a zip, that is always going to be a weak point, as the Auto Cycle Union will tell you in a heavy impact the two parts can come apart exposing your pink bits! that is why they are not allowed for bike racing, we don't generally hit the floor like bikers do........but It does occasionally happen, I wouldn't take the chance for the extra bit of mobility round the paddock............would you?
Also be aware that because the 2 piece leathers are not generally designed for racing, so the body armour inside them may not come up to any CE standards, so it could actually do you more harm than good! And if you don't use body armour of some description then you have obviously never hit the floor hard before!
The most important thing to think of when it comes to safety is that we are 4 wheeled motorcycles, admittedly we very rarely "fall out" but we have no roll cages, head restraints etc this is not a car.
Look around see what the bike racers wear, preferably the ones that fall off a lot, if you cant afford a new set try some on in the shop anyway, get your size right them look on Ebay, I bought my sons new Alpine Starts £400 without the speed hump with armour from Hein Gerick.
Don't be put off by the new style leathers with the speed hump on the back, any decent leather place, or saddler will be able to remove it for about £20.
Bikers are great, every time they buy a new road bike they have to get the new leathers to match!! Once you have got them, try them on in the kart, then only if you have to remove the minimum armour you can get away with for comfort.
HelmetsRemember new motorcycle helmets are no longer acceptable, (don't get me started on this one) only helmets bearing the BS type A kitemark are acceptable!
Do not forget the following if you have never bought a helmet before. All helmets are different. They have different construction, different shell shapes and fit, even between the same manufacturers different models.
You can be a size 56 euro in one helmet and a 60 euro in another. Certain head shapes suit certain makes of helmets. I would recommend trying on every model of helmet you fancy, & no two makes are the same. I would not personally order a helmet online unless I had already tried and tested that model in that size, and I was certain that it fitted perfect. Try checking out the suppliers at the Autosport Show or International Kart Show.
Why? Because of the lazy streak in all of us thinks, "that will do, its a bit loose but not a problem, can't be bothered to send it back, I'll get used to it." You are always better off getting a helmet that is a little tight rather than the other way. A loose helmet is a useless helmet!!
A helmet will always "bed in" and as long as its the lining that's the only tight bit, not the shell, don't worry to much as long as you are not going purple!! Anywhere that sells helmets should have trained staff to advise you on fitting.
Useful tip. - Something I have seen people do over the years is they leave helmets in the "done up" position, they leave the buckles fastened, but loosen them off to remove the helmet, you should never do this for a few reasons, the strap will eventually gain a "memory" of the tight position when in fact its not actually that tight. As the strap & lining gives with age it will gradually get looser and you may not notice until its to late! Also you could quite easily fatigue the strap over time, one of the reasons the ACU makes you bin helmets every three or so years and get a new one, why doesn't the MSA, .........ask them?
Gloves and boots.These are more of a comfort issue rather than safety, so its down to personal preference. We don't have to have fire proof ones like the car racers so at least the karting ones are inexpensive. Suggestion from my side is if you wear the fireproof underwear it will help absorb the sweat and stop your leathers smelling plus give so some safety from the 8 leters of fuel that's between your legs!
|
Send mail to
with
questions or comments about this web site.
|
